You want a big one, 28″ or so.Įxtension folding rule - Useful (but not mandatory) for measuring stretcher lengths and what not. Turning saw - The 18th century version of a bandsaw. I’ve never seen a good used one for sale. Travisher - Get one from me, Claire Minahan or James Mursell, or make your own.
Wrap the handles and the blade with wet towels so they don’t get too hot.
The one made by Ray Iles is great, but you need to bend the handles up with a torch so they don’t hit the seat as you carve. *Inshave - Barr’s inshaves are the best right out of the box (either one is fine). Beware of gutter adzes which won’t fit in a seat without modification, since they are incannel and have little curve front-to-back. The antique one I use has a long handle and I stand on the seat as I carve – it can really hog some wood off. You want one with a good shape and a good amount of weight. *Card Scraper - Learn to sharpen them here.Īdze - I rarely use one, unless I am carving hardwood seats. I like old ones, such as the ones made by ps & w.ĭead blow - For assembly. *Sharpening stones and slips - I have some in my shop you are welcome to use.ĭividers - Useful for measuring leg depths. *Scrub Plane, Bench Plane - For flattening the seat. You can watch me grind them on my online class.ġ8″ Auger Bit Extension - Used for stretcher and spindle mortices when boring without any power tools. Lee Valley’s bits are really nice and the point is long enough that you can make them work (it’s not as long as I’d like, but it’s longer than most brands). I make them from twist bits (it’s amazingly easy). School drills can have dead batteries (and I don’t have enough drills for 4 students), so you might want to bring your drill.ġ1/16″ Brad Point Bit: I use these for stretcher mortices, since an auger bit tends to tear at such a steep angle. My online class about drill bits has info on choosing, sharpening and using auger bits.Ĭordless Drill - I use this to some extent for assembly, especially stretcher mortices. *Bit Brace & Auger Bits (or bradpoints and cordless drill) - We’ll use 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 11/16 bits. For trimming leg tenons, use something beefy and of moderate sweep like a #3. *Bench Chisel - I like a 1″ chisel, the worse it looks, the better I like it. You can also make one yourself or use a large protractor. The Japan knock-offs I’ve seen are junk, as are the plastic things at Home Depot.īevel Board - Handy for setting the T-Bevel. *T-Bevel - Get one that locks well, like a Stanley #18. Heavy-bodied machinist squares are nice (less tipsy), but not necessary. *Try square - For the reaming operation, make sure it will stand upright some tip over if the wood is worn. *Marking Gauge - The duller the better – a sharp one won’t leave a line on green wood. Wooden bodies shaves and other low-angle shaves are superior for endgrain, but little else. Spokeshave - I use metal spokeshaves like Stanley #151 and the curved-bottom Boggs Shave from Lie-Neilsen (no need for the flat-bottom – the curved bottom will work for everything). My online class has lots of sharpening, purchasing and using info. For that, it’s nice to have a blade that’s 3/16″ thick or so at the edge. None of the new ones has a thin enough blade to allow the drawknife to fit into tight curves such as the seat’s waist. *Drawknife - Barr Tools and Lie-Nielsen make nice ones, but I like old ones from Ebay.
Just make sure the taper of the wedge continues all the way to the point, without any secondary bevels. A blacksmith can draw them to a point, or you can buy good ones used on Ebay. Splitting Wedges: New wedges all seem to have big bevels at the edge that make it hard to start a split. The mandatory tools are notes with an asterisk.įroe and Froe Club - If you must buy new I’d buy Lie-Nielsen’s or Lee-Valley’s but I like my old ones better. In between the two sessions, come to Plymouth CRAFT's first SPOON DAY, June 9th.NOTE: You don’t need every one of these tools to build this chair. Plymouth CRAFT Green Woodworking Scholarship spots available. Details sent to registrants.īoth sessions 9-4 at Overbrook House, 5 Old Head of the Bay Road, Buzzards Bay MA. Optional onsite lodging. Also, a nearby camping option. Satisfying and delicious lunches are included with registration. More info about those last upon registration. *Plymouth CRAFT will have Morakniv 106 sloyd knives, Musgrove pencils and a small stock of Jason Lonon bowl adzes for sale. General information on bowl carving tools and more is available at Dave's blog (there is a topic list and a search feature), and website. Other tools that may come in handy are a drawknife or pushknife, spokeshave, and a pencil* for writing on green wood. Also, a large pencil compass or dividers similar to this 12" model. A serviceable compass can even be made with some strips of wood and a bolt for a pivot point. Students should bring a hollowing adze*, carving hatchet, bent gouge, and sloyd knife*.
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